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Portugal Fashion back at New York Fashion Week with Katty Xiomara and Miguel Vieira
Portugal Fashion back at New York Fashion Week with Katty Xiomara and Miguel Vieira

Portugal Fashion's fourth international initiative in 2017 will be at New York Fashion Week. This transatlantic fashion stop will dictate the return of national designers Katty Xiomara and Miguel Vieira to the New York catwalks, following their début in September 2016, with the support of the national fashion project. It will be at Pier 59 Studios (18th Street & Westside Highway) that the proposals from designer Katty Xiomara for next autumn-winter will be revealed for the first time, on 13 February, at 2 pm local time (Studio A). The following day, at 7 pm local time and in the same place, but this time in Studio C, it will be the turn of Miguel Vieira's creations to take to the catwalk. There is a greater focus on NYFW, an indication that Portugal Fashion's internationalisation strategy is going through a consolidation phase, justified by the regular inclusion of this fashion week on its itinerary of fashion shows. After New York, next on Portugal Fashion's international agenda is London Fashion Week, on 20 February, with Alexandra Moura. This is followed by trips to Milano Moda Donna and Paris Fashion Week Prêt-à-Porter, which will end the project's international initiative in the four main capitals of fashion (New York, Milan, Paris and London).

Rafael Alves Rocha, Portugal Fashion's communications director believes that "our definitive return to the American market has been achieved with this second consecutive participation in New York Fashion Week on Portugal Fashion's international calendar of fashion shows. This rapprochement was prepared with the utmost of care and our return became a reality in 2016, after an absence of 15 years from NYFW. A victory for the entire national fashion sector, for how the Made in Portugal label left its mark on the event, and particularly a victory for the project that is consolidating its representation in the four world fashion capitals”. "We're back this season with designers Katty Xiomara and Miguel Vieira on the New York catwalks, because both designers have already begun expanding their businesses in this market and it therefore makes perfect sense, allied to the commercial efforts they have been making, for Portugal Fashion to help them at a more promotional level, leveraging the image component, not only for buyers know who they are, but also for fashion critics and the international press recognise then”, he concluded.

The mysticism of nature is Katty Xiomara's inspiration for next winter

The theme of designer Katty Xiomara's autumn/winter 2017-18 is "Impossible, yet disassociated love”. "The mysterious universe of the forest and its creatures, the drama of night-time and the never-ending hope of daytime”, predict coordinates that make use of this magical atmosphere, with a certain "wild poetry”. The prevalent colours are a variation between pastel shades, giving way to different shades of blue, until reaching black.

The starting point for a collection filled with symbolism, where the sun and the moon gain particular relevance, was the traditional Spanish song by the Gipsy Kings, "El Toro Y La Luna”: "La luna se estaba peinando / En los espejos del rio / Y un toro la esta mirando / Entre la jara "escondio”.

A collection of reflections

The proposals seek to reflect on fashion and how we present ourselves. "Is what we wear a form of self-expression or a reflection of the image we project to others?”. Believing that how we dress is defined by emotions and transmits visual perceptions, as if it were a "game of mirrors”, the designer's coordinates look at this duality: "what is seen and how it is seen”.

In fact, it is a cross-cutting theme to the Men's and Women's collections Miguel Vieira conceived for next autumn-winter. Black and shades of grey, going from "light grey to dark grey”, are the predominant colours, with the use of navy blue, red and "marshmallow white" standing out. The Men's silhouette is based on "structured slim fit suits and casual overcoats”. The personalised prints, the application of different fabrics and materials and the overlapping of looks emerge in the details, combining casual with tailored. The designer's proposals for Women have "contrasting volumes and structured garments”, some of which are oversized, varying between maxi and mini sizes. In the fabrics, the use of wool, imitation leather, cashmere, alpaca are to be noted as well as other combinations of fabrics (tailoring fabrics, check fabrics, pinstripe fabrics and 140S fabrics). Leather is particularly highlighted in the accessories, shoes, bags, briefcases and key rings.

Portugal Fashion 2015-2017, a project run by ANJE – National Association of Young Entrepreneurs, developed in partnership with ATP – Textile and Apparel Association of Portugal, and financed by Portugal 2020, under the scope of Compete 2020 – Operational Programme for Competitiveness and Internationalisation, with funding from the European Union through the European Regional Development Fund.