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International press captivated by Bloomers
International press captivated by Bloomers

Age or a CV with a myriad of lines is not the question. Well-known international publications in the fashion world are paying close attention to the new talents emerging from Portugal Fashion’s Bloom platform. The country is theirs, but so is the world.

We recently devoted an exclusive article to the Bloom platform, which emancipated during the last Portugal Fashion, with an exclusive day and location on the event calendar. Now it’s time to present the echoes of the Bloomers’ fashion shows in the international press.

Fucking Young!

In Fucking Young!, a Spanish publication keeping a close eye on emerging talent, the "best of Portugal Fashion SS17” included the proposals from six young Portuguese designers. The collection by the HIBU. label (now under the creative direction of Marta Gonçalves alone) was developed in a moment of introspection and solitude; the description of the proposals highlights the variation between dark shades and lighter colours, symbolising the introspective journey experienced by the designer herself. The suggestions from the K L A R trio clearly show the creative signature of Alexandre Marrafeiro, Andreia Oliveira and Tiago Carneiro who, according to the magazine, represents an "ode to experimentalism”. The proposals from newcomer Inês Torcato are recognised for a new reinterpretation of the classics of tailoring, clearly seen in the deconstruction of traditional suits and shirts. The colourful, risky patterns of David Catalán, inspired by the mythical London bar London’s Sketch, embody an appreciated urban collection.

The article also mentions two ex-Bloomers who moved on to the main catwalk a few events ago. It speaks of Hugo Costa’s kimonos and bomber jackets, which were revealed for the first time at the Men’s Fashion Week in Paris and Estelita Mendonça’s coordinates that are guaranteed to resist any weather, designed as they were with the purpose of being used by refugees. Alexandra Moura is another of the names highlighted here. Even before the national Portugal Fashion, the designer had already presented her most recent collection, inspired by the Victorian jewel, "The Lover’s Eyes”, at London Fashion Week.

Vein Magazine

Continuing with the Abhfya publishing group, an online article in Vein Magazine, a specialist women’s fashion magazine, mentions the coordinates by newcomer Olimpia Davide, inspired by a journey the young designer made to Turkey. Asymmetrical cuts stand out in the items, as well as a palette of neutral colours consisting of blues and greys, sprinkled with fluorescent yellow. The "Retrograde” collection by Beatriz Bettencourt, which exudes the designer’s childhood, is also mentioned. The "sporty silhouettes” filled with vintage details are praised by the publication.

Other collections were also highlighted in the article: the spring-summer 2017 proposals from Inês Torcato and the K L A R label (both presented a mixed fashion show), as well as Hugo Costa and Alexandra Moura.

TenMag

Also from Spain, another publication that follows Portugal Fashion, particularly the Bloom space, event by event. In an introductory note affirming the event as a stage for experimentation, where "el talento habita puerta con puerta”, the discovery of new designers, consolidated names and "otras eminencias con etiqueta lusa” was, according to the TENMAG team, "un plácer”. Focusing on emerging talents, the names that most captivated Tendencias Fashion Magazine include Inês Torcato, Pedro Neto, David Catalán, Eduardo Amorim and the K L A R and HIBU. labels. (in fact, this last was the only participant on the Bloom platform to have its fashion shown in Lisbon).

Brunch Magazine

Still on the Iberian Peninsula, a reference to Brunch Magazine, a disruptive publication that elected its favourites on the catwalk at the 39th Portugal Fashion, in a selection that included two Bloomers: Inês Torcato, with her "deconstrucción de la sastrería” and David Catalán, with a "colección de hombre que puede ser para mujer”. Also highlighted in the same article were alumni Estelita Mendonça, Hugo Costa and Susana Bettencourt and the well-known Miguel Vieira, Luís Buchinho, Carlos Gil and the Alves/Gonçalves duo.

Schön! Magazine

Further afield, we weighed anchor in England and looked at what British magazine Schön! had to say about Portugal Fashion. The title "Portuguese promise” shows a glimpse of a luxurious narrative. In fact, to paraphrase the prestigious publication "set up in 1995, there’s no doubt that the project [Portugal Fashion], which aims to champion national fashion both at home and abroad, has gone from strength to strength. The spring/summer 2017 edition provided plenty of evidence that there’s a wealth of design talent, as well as an established manufacturing industry, in this Iberian land”. The items focused on consist of the looks by young designer Beatriz Bettencourt, the formers Estelita Mendonça and Susana Bettencourt, and the well-known Alves/Gonçalves and Alexandra Moura.

In another article recently published also, devoted especially to Bloom, Schön! Magazine presented a photo essay which included items from the [UN]T duo (Tiago Silva and Joana Cardinal), the K L A R and HIBU. labels, coordinates by Estelita Mendonça and footwear by Hugo Costa.

Hunger TV

Of the "Seven things that we loved at Portugal Fashion Week”, Hunger highlighted the "playful, colourful and witty” collection by David Catalán, the "neon slippers” by Olimpia Davide, the use of the "metal hoop” by K L A R, the "geek chic” style of Beatriz Bettencourt, as well as Hugo Costa’s "metallic obsession”, the "powerful political design” of Estelita Mendonça and the "pretty sailor girls” by Katty Xiomara.

Vogue Italia

Vogue Italia, more precisely Vogue Italia Talents, was another well-known international publication that did not miss the call from Portugal Fashion and was present at the fashion shows, as it has been at previous events. The article, which speaks of well-known designers and new national talents, mentioned the "shabby” style of the men’s proposals from David Catalán, the 1990s revisited in the coordinates by Eduardo Amorim, the edgy individualism of HIBU., the casual schizophrenic look by Olimpia Davide and the formal lightness of Sara Maia. In the article, Vogue Italia Talents also mentioned the participation of fashion schools on the Bloom calendar, in particular ESAD, EMP and Modatex, considered to be the laboratories that create the talents of tomorrow.

D Repubblica

Staying in Italy, let us now take a look at an article shared in the La Repubblica newspaper’s weekly leisure magazine, one of the most important in the country. Focusing particularly on the men’s collections and the young designers’ platform, the publication is of the opinion that "tra i designer più interessanti promossi da Bloom sono Eduardo Amorim, Beatriz Bettencourt, David Catalan, Inês Torcato and Pedro Neto”. But that’s not all. Designers Estelita Mendonça, Hugo Costa, Miguel Vieira, Alexandra Moura, Luís Buchinho, Carlos Gil and Pedro Pedro were also on the list of choices for D Repubblica. It should be noted that this article was reprinted in two other well-known publications, NowFashion and Man in Town.

Collezione

Staying in the Mediterranean, the Collezione group wrote a general news item about Portugal Fashion SS17 and, of course, described everything that happened at the "incubatore Bloom”. From Maria Kobrock’s collection in shades of blue and green to Eduardo Amorim’s pastel colours or the elegant black that is characteristic of Pedro Neto, for example.

Social media

Although it would be impossible to mention here everything posted on social media on the Bloomers, we must mention some of the international buzz created around the new talents in national fashion. The French Wad Magazine, for example, shared different moments from the event, such as the videos made at the fashion shows by Beatriz Bettencourt and Olimpia Davide. The same was the case with Altaroma’s fashion consultant and fashion scout, Simonetta Gianfelici, who even shared the Bloom poster (a graphic element which has been incorporated into the new image of the platform) and, among other images on the last Portugal Fashion, the collections by Pedro Neto, David Catalán and Inês Torcato.

 

Note: this article will be updated whenever this is warranted by new international news on Portugal Fashion’s Bloom platform.